Hearkening back to a time when women were called “dames,” when Victory Rolls and Veronica Lake waves were all the rage in hair, the Deborah Lippmann Fall 2014 “New York Marquee” collection takes inspiration from the luxe fabrics of the 1940s. Think of the chrometastic Chrysler Building, the glitz of Broadway and silk charmeuse gowns.
Formula & Application
Deborah Lippmann nail polish is 5-Free (DBP, Toluene, Formaldehyde, Formaldehyde Resin, Camphor) and cruelty-free. Her signature glass bottle is one of the most recognizable shapes in the industry and it’s totally vanity display worthy. The curved cap was designed with professional manicurists in mind as it is shaped to rest comfortably between your fingers. The Lippmann brush is short, round and average in width with flexible bristles that easily fan out over the nail plate.
The polishes are described as “luxe chromes” and are all very well pigmented, you barely need two coats, but application can be tricky. I tried a number of traditional base coats, including Deborah Lippmann Gel Lab Coat of Arms, and none of them play well with the formula. The polish was streaky and patchy over all of them, in spite of letting them fully dry.
What did work, is using an aqua base (Nfu Oh Aqua Base) or applying them to a bare nail. Alternately, using a glossy top coat, like Out The Door or Seche as a base coat will help avoid streaks.
However, if you have ridges, like me, they will show. To minimize them, apply a ridge filler UNDER your aqua base. Just make sure the base is completely dry. Similarly, make sure you let each layer of polish dry before adding another coat.
Application tip: As I suggest with most chromes, to avoid brush marks, apply to the sides first and finish with one smooth stroke down the middle.
Deborah Lippmann 12th Street Rag is a rosy magenta chrome. The silver shimmer is very prominent in the bottle and the nail. It mellows out what otherwise would been a very intense hue.
Deborah Lippmann Autumn in New York is a soft, yellow gold chrome. All the shades have a brushed feel but this one is so buttery, it feels like you’re wearing actual gold.
Deborah Lippmann Harlem Nocturne is an indigo chrome. More blue than purple, it has a silky, night sky vibe.
Deborah Lippmann I’ll Take Manhattan is a subdued, peacock teal chrome. The silver shimmer adds a seafoam element to the overall look.
Deborah Lippmann Lullaby of Broadway is described as a blush but it looks warmer on my skin than what I normally think of as blush. I would call it a pink nude.
Deborah Lippmann Take The “A” Train is a graphite chrome. This molten concoction was the smoothest of all the shades in application.
Bottom Line: While I love the concept and color palette of the New York Marquee collection, you have to be willing to put in the work to get them to look flawless. If you’re that person, enjoy! I’m generally not a chrome fan because of the formula and application issues so, given the price point, I can’t say that I would recommend these.
Thoughts on the New York Marquee collection? Which shades are drawing your eye? If a polish is beautiful but requires application trickery, are you willing to put in the work?