Katie Cazorla is small town girl who made dreams come true when she turned her passion for all things nails into owning her own salon, The Painted Nail. Not long after, reality tv came a knocking and now the nail world has its very own reality show, Nail Files, premiering Tuesday night at 10pm EST on the TV Guide Network. Katie and a colorful cast of characters are bringing their larger-than-life personalities to the party and what a party it is. Katie is opening the doors to her salon and her life, putting all the drama, fun and day-to-day business headaches on display. We get to see what it’s like for someone, who started a nail salon from scratch, trying to keep it all together in a crazy town like Los Angeles. Keep reading to learn more about Katie and what we can expect from Nail Files this season.

Tell us a little about yourself. Were you always into nails?

I’m from Elmira, NY. And actually, my mom is from Ohio, Dayton actually (ed note: Yay for Ohio connections!). I have the small town kind of nice upbringing. There were no spoiled or entitled girls. I have really good work ethics from when I was little. That’s what sets my business apart from the others. Plus I went to nail school and read books and completely enraptured myself in nails.

I went to Sunday school as a little girl. We had to color in these pictures of Jesus and the Virgin Mary. And my mother wasn’t a big coloring book person. She thought it didn’t instill creativity because you are just coloring in someone else’s artwork.  But I ended up putting red nails and toes on the Virgin Mary and putting glitter on Jesus’ overcoat. My mom mom still has that picture. Virgin Mary had red nails because my mom always had red nails.

Katie also had Raggedy Ann and Andy dolls which had mitts for hands, no fingers or nails. She used her mom’s old nail polish to give Raggedy Ann polished nails that dried all crusty on the fabric.

How did Nail Files come about? What is it about The Painted Nail that caught TV Guide Network’s eye?

I opened my salon March 8, of 2009. I didn’t do a grand opening right away because I wanted to work out the kinks. After about three months I thought, it hadn’t burned down or anything, so I did a grand opening. I invited a lot of fun people and asked my boyfriend to invite some friends and there was a producer who came and was like, “I’ve never seen a salon like this. You have a stripper pole and a stage.”

But I said this is my real business so we can’t like eff it up with some crazy show. I want to show what it takes for somebody who doesn’t come from a trust fund or loaded parents to open up a small business and make it work.

What is the biggest factor in the fast success and growth of your salon?

I honestly do eat and breathe nails. I don’t take breaks, I don’t take vacation. I maybe sleep an hour a night. I’m one of those people who really have a hard time turning it off. I feel like if you really have a passion for something. If you can really change the way people view something, I think you can do it. I thought nail salons in LA were really bad. Like what is the deal in Los Angeles? You go to get your nails done and it’s $150 at a spa or $20 and you question the cleanliness.

The nail polish fanatic in me needs to know, what do you have on your nails right now?

I’m wearing Miz Biz, a bright blue named by Paramore’s Hayley Williams, with Stiletto, a black crème, on my ring finger as an accent. I topped them all with Moon Drops top coat which has polka dot-esque sequins and pen point holographic glitter.

So you have a thing for glitter?

I love glitter when it’s done right. When it’s on long crazy nails, unless you physically do nails, I don’t think it looks good. It looks tacky. Glitter looks best on short, square nails with rounded corners.

Does your boyfriend now know more about nails then he ever wanted?

Like you don’t even know. He knows what 3 & 4 Free mean. He knows what all the chemicals are. He knows about color choice and layering. He knows about cuticle maintenance and pumice stones. I show him the blogs. He really gets excited to tell people about what he knows.

He’s just a fun guy and he totally gets it. When he has a hanging cuticle he comes in and asks for nippers. He does know the French manicure is dated. He says women shouldn’t do French toes unless they are in porn or are a stripper. Why do you need to have big thick lines on your toes? It looks like a bird claw.

I love that you read the nail blogs and have a love for nail polish as much as you do nails in general.

There’s people who just love polish so much. And then there are people who are like “Hmm, I don’t really care if my nails are done.” I’m like, “I don’t even understand you!” It’s a small thing you can do and when your nails are polished and have a little bit of shine, it’s like UH! Makes me feel so good about myself.

Nubar has a lot of nail fanatic fans. How did you choose the company to work with?

There’s just something about the Nubar formula. It doesn’t smell when you open the bottle. Some polishes, you open the bottle and feel like you are going to die, it’s so intense. Plus I can’t handle it when brands test on animals. It’s the softie animal lover in me. And being at the Nubar factory is like a kid in a candy store moment. You just want to steal. I stole once when I was like six. I stole a Humpty Dumpty punching balloon from Hills and my mother made me take it back. (breaking in) Hills, my mother LOVED Hills! Mine too!

Anyway, getting back to Nubar, I convinced him that I wanted to do a whole line about layering and fun colors. To take what my customers love from the line but make it just a hair different. We didn’t want to go too off the wall. We wanted to stay true to Nubar.

Are your colors are exclusive?

For the signature Painted Nail collection they are different. The brushes and caps are different. They apply a bit differently. It’s more retail than professional. He uses a brush that is more for a nail tech. Our brush is amateur friendly. It’s not a wide brush but it’s a flat brush.

Also the formula is different. We use a lot more jelly base because anyone can do it. You can suck at polishing your nails but if you have a jelly base it’s almost like gel. It hardens and it looks like you got a professional manicure.

The promos for Nail Files mention celebrity clients. I see you have polishes named by celebrities. How did that come about? Do they collaborate on the colors?

I have the colors done in the bottles. When a celebrity comes in. I feel them out when they come in and see if they are into talking about the salon. If they are being chatty and fun I’ll bring over my colors and ask them to honor my line by naming a color. For fall, I have a gray with holographic glitter that Lisa Rinna named Belle after her store Belle Gray. I also have a white called Betty, after Betty White.

Who was your first big celebrity client?

Ashley Tisdale and Vanessa Hudgens. Ashley called the store and her name popped up on the caller ID. I wondered if it was the real Ashley Tisdale and then she said she wanted to make an appointment for her and her friend Vanessa to come in to get mani/pedis. Paula Abdul and Hilary and Haylie Duff were next. After Hillary got engaged she chose a white jelly base polish, with glitter that looks like sprinkles on a cupcake, that she named Secret Engagement.

You mentioned before that the French manicure is dated so how do you not hold an intervention when the Jersey Shore girls, who are known for their acrylics and thick French tips, come in for service?

When they first came in, I thought maybe this wouldn’t be the best for me because it was all four of them; Snooki, J-Woww, Sammi, Deena and they were like, “Why don’t you do acrylics?” I feel there’s no need for acrylics anymore but they have their style so it’s not my place to intervene. But there really is no need for acrylics. I don’t like the smell, it’s just terrible. There’s soak-off gel, there’s Virtual Nails if you have busted nails. Dashing Diva Vitural Nails is a miracle product. We have people who are diehard acrylic fans or chronic nail biters who have nubs and we put the Virtual Nails with a very thin white natural line and they look like a real nail. They’re so thin, like a contact lens.

What do you want people to take away from the show?

I really want people to see what it takes to run a nail salon and all the crazy stuff that is in it. Because It’s not easy to do but it’s easy to start. If you have the passion for doing your own nails or doing other people’s nails or just making people feel pretty you could do this. You could start a very glam nail place and make the world understand that nails is not just a junkie, chop shop. That we matter, it is glamourous. People in the nail world know and it’s time for everyone to see it.

Remember to tune in to Nail Files on the TV Guide Network, Tuesday June 21st at 10pm EST to catch the premiere episode and stay tuned for a fun Nail Files giveaway.

Last fall during a trip to NYC with a few of my beauty blogging buddies, I had the pleasure of meeting Jin Soon Choi at her eponymous Upper East Side salon for a mani/pedi and a little nail chat. We connected through our mutual friend, the MAC goddess and SeoulDiva herself, Heather Park. Little did I know, Jin was already at work collaborating on the Fall Nail Trend collection for MAC. She hinted at a future collection but couldn’t reveal details.

It wasn’t until last February when I saw Jin and Heather backstage at the Doo.Ri show that I got my first glimpse of Beyond Jealous and info on the rest of the collection. Needless to say, I was DYING over the blackened teal creme and thrilled for Jin’s success.

Learn more about Jin, which of her favorite NARS polishes I tried and hear how she earned the nickname “Bicycle Jin” after the jump!

In The Beginning
Jin came to the US from Seoul, Korea after working in fashion design. To hear Jin tell it, becoming a manicurist is just what you do when you come to the city but the passion in her voice as she talks about nails makes me believe it was her destiny. She started out in a small salon to gain experience but when she learned it was closing she took to her bicycle, riding to clients’ homes to tend to their nails. It was during this “Bicycle Jin” phase of her career that she met Andrea from Glamour who admired Jin’s work enough to help her get an agent and enter the editorial world.

The First Jin Soon Hand and Foot Spa
After gaining success working on photo shoots and with celebrities, Jin decided to open her first salon in the East Village. It was when she hired architect John Coughlan to design the space that she met her future husband. They found and refurbished old school desks and incorporated Jin’s style based on the scrapbook full of magazine clippings she collected. While the following West Village and Upper East Side locations each have their own distinct look, they both represent Jin’s simplistic, refined aesthetic.

Fast Forward To Today
With a chain of successful salons, Jin continues her editorial work alongside some of the greats in the fashion and beauty world. Famed photographer Steven Meisel books her for weeks at a time to work on all his shoots while he’s in NYC. She describes him as sweet and soft spoken and together they’ve made many a memorable Vogue cover. Highly skilled in nail art Jin creates some incredibly intricate designs including a fun spread for Teen Vogue last March.

Jin’s passion for education and proper manicuring techniques has led to a desire to impart her vast knowledge on the nail community. The number of poorly trained techs out there giving improper manicures is staggering and she hopes to find a way to teach them the basics you can’t learn in school. She personally trains her staff so that every guest at her salon receives the same high standard of service.

Jin Fun Facts and Favorites
Loves the PedEgg – That’s no joke. Even though regulations prevent her from using the popular infomercial tool in her salon, she’s a fan of it for home use. In the salon they use a scrub and pumice stone.

Is a film and architecture fan – When she’s not at work in her salons or on set, Jin likes to enjoy simple Korean food, see a movie and walk hand-in-hand with her hubby exploring the unique and diverse architecture of the city.

Has GORGEOUS nails – I experienced some serious nail bed envy with Jin. Despite the amount of work her hands go through, she has flawless, strong nails. She attributes them to genetics and Omega 3s. If only we could all be so lucky.

Reads to improve her English – Jin loves the challenge of deciphering new words to expand her grasp of the language.

The most flattering nail shape is The Jin Soon Shape – Jin warns against following the cuticle line or free edge when shaping nails. Her employees dubbed her signature filing style “The Jin Soon Shape” which is straight and a little rounded at the edge. Somewhere between squoval and flat. I’m modeling it wearing NARS Jungle Red. This was after 5 days. Just LOOK at that amazing wear.

Jin’s first TV appearance was on Tyra – She was brought on to talk about the “fish pedicure” but wasn’t familiar with the technique. After an early morning working with Reese Witherspoon she was rushed to the studio at the last minute and extremely nervous. Jin’s take on the treatment, it’s odd especially since “fish poop a lot!”

The 3 cornerstones of her business - Great music, great tea, great technique. It’s all about customer service and the experience with Jin. Her warm demeanor lends to an atmosphere that feels like you’re sitting amongst friends. During my time at the salon, her clients would just join in the convo, adding their two cents on nail color, the fish pedicure and the need for an Upper West Side locale.

Dark polishes belong on short nails, period – While long, dark talons may be OK in the editorial world, for the everyday wearer, dark polishes look best on short tips.

Loves the edgy, more editorial shades – I just call those “me” colors. Jin digs the greens, grays and funky taupes, like You Don’t Know Jacques, for their edge and sophistication. In fact she recently picked Barielle U-Concrete-Me as one of the “It” colors of the season in US Weekly alongside her creation, MAC Beyond Jealous.

Names Essie & NARS among her fave polish brands - While there are many brands on Jin’s shelves (Chanel, OPI, Zoya, etc) Essie Allure, for a natural look, and NARS Chinatown and Jungle Red are her go-to polishes.

Jin is one of Seche Vite’s legion of fans – The Fanatic Favorite is also Jin’s though when it comes to base coats it depends on condition of the client’s nails. She lists Duri Rejuvacoat and Essie base coats as staples.

The staff are her guinea pigs – Before any product is used on a client, Jin and her employees rigorously test it themselves.

I want to thank Jin for her time and congratulate her on the stunning MAC Nail Trend F/W09 collection. I wish her much happiness and success.

Peace, Love & Polish, Michelle

Ji Baek has been a beauty rebel since childhood when she would smuggle clothes and makeup out of the house and away from her conservative parents’ watchful eyes. She continues to buck the standard in the beauty industry as the founder of Rescue Beauty Lounge, the first nail focused luxury salon in New York City. Originally, Ji was on the path to becoming a professional viola player. An injury cut that dream short, eventually leading her to the male dominated world of restaurant management. It was during those endless days in painful heels that the concept for Rescue Beauty Lounge came to fruition. With pedicures being the only reprieve for her aching feet, Ji was disgruntled with the nail options in NYC. Having to choose from dirty, cheap nail shops (I call them “chop shops”) or upscale salons where nails aren’t a priority, she set her sights on giving Manhattan women a hygienic, pampering destination that specializes in hands and feet.

I had the pleasure of meeting Ji at her Gansevoort St. location during my last trip to the city. Tucked in amongst the designer showrooms and trendy eateries is a very unassuming building with no visible signage, just a call box that lists Rescue Beauty Lounge. Up on the 2nd floor, I found Ji waiting for me. A most welcoming host, Ji is insanely chic and beautiful. She’s one of those women that probably takes five minutes to pull together an outfit that the rest of us would spend hours pondering. Wearing a layered gray ensemble and killer black leather boots with a perfectly placed slouchy knit cap resting upon her wavy black tresses, she’s the picture of effortless style (I’d show you but Ji’s camera shy). Learn more about Ji, get the deets on my visit and see pics of the latest additions to my RBL arsenal after the jump.

My first impression of Rescue was of its clean, modern design, amazing skylight (what a find for NYC!) and of course, the polish. Ji says fate brought her to that space and well she must have amazing luck to find such a locale. With an obvious talent for interior design, Ji chose a muted, cool toned palette to outfit her salon. Very soothing. Before proceeding to the “lounge” I made a stop at the polish display to decide on a color for my mani-pedi. I was like a kid in a candy store, perusing all the shades I’d been dying to see in person. When you see them, all lined up on crisp, white, minimalist shelves, it’s overwhelming. Needless to say, it was not an easy choice but I selected Dead Calm, a shade at the top of my lemming list. Dead Calm in hand, I took up residence in one of the intimate lounges (pictured left) to receive my services. Each space is appointed with comfy couches and surrounded by high walls, providing peace and privacy. A few minutes later, Ji joined me for a chat and a fresh mani of No More War to replace her 9 day-old, but still acceptable, Teal tips. Ji comes across very laid back and calm. Like she doesn’t have a care in the world. She’s not one of those chatty, mile-a-minute talkers (like me). She’s more reserved, with a twinkle in her eye that makes you think she is a keeper of great secrets. Though I will say that she’s very forthright when it comes to discussing the industry, her work ethic and style and personal passions. Here’s a bit of what I learned about Ji.

Ji is a punk at heart
As a teen she was restricted from any permanent beauty transformations due to her involvement in orchestra. As a former flautist, I know the pain of wearing those hideous black and white uniforms for concerts. It really is enough to make you want to dye your hair pink (something Ji would love to do someday). So she would don punk clothes and wear outrageous makeup as a way to express herself.

Her hair was once short and blonde
Can you imagine? That gorgeous mane cut off and bleached blonde? I guess we all go there once.

She is a hands on owner.
Ji works seven days a week. She didn’t grow her business to just sit back and drink in the success. You can usually find her at one of RBL’s two Manhattan locations.

Ji hand mixes new colors right in the salon
That’s right kids. On any given day you might find Ji at the front desk, mixing polishes, working on her next creation.

There is no RBL Warehouse
You heard me. When all of you go crazy, ordering new collections, they pull stock from right in house and package on site. Spending all weekend getting your orders out if necessary.

She’s a perfectionist
Every polish that joins the RBL lineup must withstand Ji’s rigorous testing. She will send a shade back to production over and over until it meets her standards. Each lacquer must last nine days when used with her treatment system and be perfectly pigmented, requiring only two coats.

Her inherent love of fashion influences the RBL collections
No More War, Teal, Yellow Fever, Recycle, Starfish Patrick, Bikini Bottom, Chinoise… they’re all straight from the runways. Ji takes inspiration from her favorite designers and translates it to nails.
Chinoise is a man magnet and the perfect intro to bold nail color
One of Ji’s long time clients works in a law firm, opting for safe, office appropriate colors. Hearing that she had a date, Ji convinced her to step outside her comfort zone and try Chinoise, a sexy red. Not only did it impress the man but her client has been experimenting with the rainbow of RBL shades ever since.

Polish names can have multiple meanings
Ji revealed that some shade names aren’t as literal as they appear. While No More War is certainly a statement about our current political state, she says that Teal isn’t just a color descriptor. That it also references a state of calm.

Black Russian is ReVamp
We can put that question to bed, once and for all. For legal reasons it was renamed Black Russian.

Ji does what she wants, on her timeline
You’ll never see a RBL collection rushed in order to meet magazine deadlines. Ji refuses to conform to traditional release dates or industry standards. If that means releasing just one polish or giving us a double whammy with two fall collections, so be it. She answers only to herself.

She doesn’t pay attention to the competition
Not wanting to be influenced by other nails brands, Ji isolates herself from what they are doing.

Ji works hard and vacations even harder
With RBL being her main focus, Ji doesn’t have a ton of downtime. So when she takes a vacay, it’s for serious. We’re talking total relaxation. There’s no snorkeling trips or hiking excursions involved. In fact, she hardly ventures off property. A fave destination of her and the hubby, Cancun’s luxury resorts.

She’s childless by choice
Much like the boyfriend and I, Ji and her husband have made the decision to be child-free. And we both wish people would stop telling us we’ll change our mind. It’s not always different when it’s yours.

Now what kind of nail polish fanatic would I be if I didn’t bring home some RBL goodness to share with you. Here are my latest additions.

Square Pants – the perfect banana pudding yellow. It’s intended to be more sheer but I used three coats.
Dead Calm – my new favorite blue. My 2008 wish of discovering the perfect blue creme came true when I met Dead Calm.
Chinoise – how could I not select “man magnet” red? Ji’s right, the boyfriend loved it. He digs red polish so I knew he’d be a sucker for this one.
In addition to the polishes, I snagged Rescue’s treatment system, it makes the polish wear like iron, and Citrus Vert hand lotion. If you love citrus scents, you’ll DIE over this. Though I forgot to pick up a copy of Ji’s book so I plan to get one while I’m in NYC next week.

I want to give a heartfelt thanks to Ji Baek for inviting me into her lovely world of polish. Be sure to visit RescueBeauty.com to satisfy all your RBL lemmings.

images: Ji Baek, Rescue Beauty Lounge, All Lacquered Up, Style.com

In the third and final installment of our Nail Files journey with CND, we’ll be looking at custom blending. Or to you MUA nail board girls, the art of the Frankenpolish. If you missed the previous two segments, be sure to check out Part 1 and Part 2.

Custom blending is what intrigued me the most during my visit with CND Education Ambassadors Kristina Baume and Shelena Robinson at their production suite. Figuring out the perfect combination of colors to precisely match a swatch of fabric or Pantone shade is such an art form. Having a keen eye for color and a vivid imagination is key. Plus it just sounds like a lot of fun.

The process reminds me of mixing finger paints as a kid, learning about the color wheel and how yellow and blue make green. Of course for Kristina and Shelena, creating an ideal hue is serious work and they have time constraints to adhere to. So the pressure is intense even with all the tools they have on hand; a Pantone guide, various lighting options (fluorescent, incandescent and daylight) and a flow chart containing all the CND shades (including international exclusives).

What amazed me most is all the colors that go into the blends. Colors you wouldn’t even imagine. Like neon or orange in a soft gray. Glow-in-the-dark purple in a deep blue. Shimmer in a creme.

According to Kristina, a lot of times when a shimmer or micro-glitter polish is used in a blend, it doesn’t result in a sparkly shade. A shimmer based polish adds reflectiveness, depth and shine to the final hue. That even if a shade appears shimmery in the bottle, it can dry with a creme finish. This is the reason they present color options to designers on the nail and not in the bottle. The sparkle can be deceptive.

Get The Look – Nordic Grey Creme from Costello Tagliapietra F/W ’08 Mix 1/2 bottle Retro White with 22 drops Black Platinum, 10 drops Voodoo and 8 drops Hot Pop Blue. Note: I only used 4 drops of Hot Pop Blue and substituted Color Club Black for Voodoo. CND does not recommend mixing brands so blend at your own risk.

Get The Look – Heather Grey at Catherine Malandrino F/W ’08 Mix 1/2 bottle of Nordic Grey Creme (above) with 1/2 bottle of G’listen Adding G’listen to the blend creates a warmer, slightly shimmery gray.

Get The Look – Custom Blue at Karen Walker F/W ’08 Mix 1/2 bottle Blue Blood with 1/2 bottle Studio 54 Note: Blue Blood is discontinued but can still be found on eBay until CND decides to bring it back. PLEASE Bring It Back!!

While I don’t have an exact recipe for the shimmery violet gray shown at the Twinkle F/W ’08 show, it certainly has the most diverse color combination I’ve seen yet. A mix of Voodoo, Hot Pop Yellow, Kumquat Dahlia, G’listen, Rock Royalty, Blue Nirvana

Finally, one of CND’s Spring collection shades is a custom blend used during NYFW for Spring/Summer 09 Get The Look – Fill a CND bottle with Retro White up to the bottom of the C. Add Voodoo to the top of the C plus 6 drops NFS, 6 drops Hotski to Tchotchke and 6 drops Hot Pop Blue. Note: NFS is another discontinued color but you can find it on Goddess Within and eBay. The result – a gorgeous cool toned, medium grey creme.

Bringing you this series about CND at NYFW has been so much fun. I hope you have enjoyed it. I want to thank CND, Kristina Baume and Shelena Robinson for granting me such amazing access and taking the time to share their passion with all of us. In closing, I’ll leave you with a quote from Kristina that really sums up why I am so fanatical about nails. “Nails are not just nails, they’re accessories.”

Previously on the Nail Files, we looked at CND’s involvement in New York Fashion Week. The planning, prep and history. In this installment we’ll go in depth, talking about custom tips including the labor intensive design/production process and how to take these looks from the runway to the real world.

With no formal training in art, let alone nail art, it is the pure genius and creativity of CND Education Ambassadors Kristina Baume and Shelena Robinson that bring these amazing creations to life. Each season, the CND team meets with the designers to discuss their concept, inspiration and desired nail look. When custom tips are requested, it is up to Kristina and Shelena to take take those ideas back to the production suite and create multiple nail looks to present.

With a 1920s theme to inspire them, some of the concepts presented to Kimora Lee Simmons for her Baby Phat and KLS collections included black on black, textural designs (see right) and meticulously detailed stained glass tips (below right).

Get the look: Shiny Black on Matte Black. Apply two coats of CND Voodoo and one coat of matte top coat, CND Ridge Out or use gray side of nail buffer on dry CND Speedy. Use a thin nail art brush to apply CND Shiney in desired pattern.

The intricate designs on the stained glass nails took up to six hours to create. For just ONE nail. Though once chosen, the process is fine tuned to make production easier. After all, they have to create eighteen tips for each model to make sure the on site artists can find the right fit. No wonder they pull all-nighters.

The look Kimora chose – black, Swarovski encrusted, almond shaped tips that took ten hours to create. Though the image really doesn’t do them justice. In person, the reflectiveness and shine are captivating.

At The Blondes, the theme was the movie Legend. You know, the magical fantasy film from the 80s starring Tom Cruise (when he was still drool-worthy) and Mia Sara (Ferris Bueller’s girlfriend).

Examples of some of the extremely inventive designs CND presented include a unicorn horn, animal skins, fur, jewels, even a mini Lord of Darkness (pictured right).

Get the look: Distressed Leather. Apply two coats of gold lacquer as a base color. Dilute an Amber polish with a bit of acetone and use a sea sponge to apply it on top.

Get the Look: Leather-like Texture. Apply two coats of Voodoo. While tacky, press balled cellophane wrap gently onto the surface. Apply a thin layer of top coat after the polish has completely dried.

In the end, the designers chose glittery, blingtastic, jeweled tips to accompany their designs (see right). Pairing a different nail tip with each model.

Get the look – Jeweled & Glittery. Jeweled – apply small nail art stones along the smile line (between the pink & white part of the nail) or apply 1-2 stones at the tip. Glittery – ice tips in glitter polish or apply a thin layer as a wash. Try CND VIP Status, Pulse, Last Call or Disco Ball.

In Part 3 of this journey, I’ll show you some of the gorgeous custom blend polishes made just for the runway. You won’t believe the colors they use to get just the right look. You’ll find out how they’re made and how to re-create them at home.

In this installment of the Nail Files, I’ll be taking you on a three part journey behind the scenes of the craziness that is New York Fashion Week. Each season CND dominates the backstage nail scene, collaborating with some of the biggest fashion designers in the business to bring their nail vision to the fashion world. Spearheaded by Co-Founder and Style Director Jan Arnold, CND has been a presence at Fashion Week for almost ten years now.

Every season the CND team creates nail concepts for Fashion Weeks across the globe. And with each passing year, their client roster continues to grow. In New York alone, they work on over sixty shows. Can you imagine what goes into planning that kind of operation? Well, last February I was at NWFW and had the chance to find out first hand.

In addition to going backstage and seeing the artists at work, I had the opportunity to meet with CND Education Ambassadors Kristina Baune and Shelena Robinson. Kristina and Shelena work in the CND production suite at a hotel near Bryant Park where they create all the custom tips and colors used at the shows. Three days before Fashion Week begins, Shelena and Kristina arrive in New York to begin production, working non-stop throughout the week. Often sleep deprived from all-nighters or eighteen hour workdays, I met them mid-FW insanity and they were so charming and friendly. Though it’s not all work and no play, they do have some downtime to watch a movie and relax. I learned that in the beginning CND did all their production in advance, out of state. But due to a shipping error a few years back, the tips for Baby Phat, Heatherette and L.A.M.B.’s first FW show didn’t arrive. So after scrambling to NYC nail supply stores and pulling an all-nighter to replace the tips, they wisely moved production onsite.

To cover all the shows, CND puts together three or four backstage teams armed with 6 bottles each of their current collection, the “popular” core collection colors, including nude favorites Serenity and Negliee, and their upcoming line in addition to any custom colors the designer may have requested. They have to be prepared for any last minute color changes. And even though there are designers that don’t want any polish on the nails, CND artists are still on the scene providing manicures/pedicures and nail treatments. For Fall 2008, Jan Arnold and the CND team dubbed their color concept “Neutrals of the Night” with two sides of the story, Techno Chic and Savage Chic. Techno Chic is futuristic and cool toned. Consisting of gray, black, gunmetal, silver, leather-like texture and stone looking adornments. Savage Chic is warmer and earthier with more natural tones. Gold, copper, feathers and pearls. Texture is a big trend they’re seeing for fall with a lot of designers wanting a matte finish. At the moment, CND doesn’t make a matte top coat but I hear it’s in the works. Tip: use the gray side of their girlfriend buffer on a dry top coat to give a matte look. I had such a great time chatting with Kristina and Shelena. They are artists in the truest sense of the word. And meeting all the backstage team members was fantastic. The entire CND team was so accommodating, making my first FW experience a memorable one.

Now you all have heard me raving about the amazing dove gray in CND’s fall collection. Let’s get real, I’ve been raving about light gray in general. But what spawned that love was seeing the CND version on a member of their PR team. Unfortunately that collection is one we’ll never see but don’t despair because I will show you how to recreate it yourself so stay tuned.

In the next part of The Nail Files series we’ll be looking at the custom tip process and all the amazing concepts Kristina & Shelena come up with.

Be sure to check out Part 2 & Part 3 in this series.

In this installment of The Nail Files, I had the opportunity to interview Kimmie Kyees a celebrity manicurist with an insane roster of clients. To name just a few; Rhianna (including her Umbrella video), Kelis, Jenna Jameson, Paris Hilton and Jennifer Hudson on the night of her Golden Globe win!

So when I first saw pictures of Rhianna on the Grammy red carpet, I just had to know about that shocking neon orange shade on her tips and who did it. Thanks to my friends at China Glaze who hooked me up with the 411. The shade – China Glaze Japanese Koi. The artist – Kimmie. Naturally I had to track her down and get the scoop on her background, career and favorite products.

Why did you decide to become a manicurist?
I wore long fake nails and back when I was 16, while on a Sally’s beauty shop run for my manicurist, I said to my friend Kayla, “I could probably just buy the stuff and do my nails myself.” She bet me that I couldn’t so, a small purchase of Alpha 9 nail products later and I was on my way to winning!

Kayla was my guinea pig; she endured torture and wore those hideous “just learning” nails for me. Then my best friend Sacha decided to go to cosmetology school and dragged me with her! We worked in 2 different day spas for over 7 years back in Ohio. So the license and career I owe to Sacha, my passion and drive come from Kayla for making that bet with me!

I see you’re a fellow Buckeye, what prompted you to make the move to California?
My youngest sister Tiffany lived in LA and she’d say how much fun it would be if I moved there but I always had a boyfriend and loved working with my best friend and clients. One day there was no more boyfriend and my best friend got married so it was now or never. I can do nails anywhere so I figured if I hate it I’ll just move back to Ohio!
Editor‘s note: Regardless of Kimmie‘s previous Ohio address, she is a UofM Wolverine fan at heart. This Buckeye fan agrees to peacefully co-exist.

Tackling the entertainment and editorial world is quite a challenge. What pushed you to make that leap and how did you break into the industry?
I was working full-time for Burke Williams Day Spa and part-time at the Mondrian Hotel Spa Agua when I was introduced to Mobile Spas by fellow nail tech Debbie Love. It was a slow start but the flexible schedule and better pay were worth it. One mobile job could pay nearly as much as a whole day at the spa. So I took the leap of faith, quit my jobs and prayed that I would stay busy freelancing.

Opportunities started presenting themselves and I met manicurist Melissa Bozant. She taught me about portfolios and the importance of keeping records about the celebrities I worked on and photographers I worked with. That helped get me on my way and by the end of last year I had my own agent.

You have quite a large celebrity clientele. What is the biggest challenge in working with celebrities? And who do you feel are the biggest risk-takers in terms of nail fashion?
Hands down Rihanna is the biggest risk taker. She looks for the brightest, most fun colors! She always finds one in what I call my “80′s Party Bag!” It’s a bag full of neons and “plugged in” shades; mostly China Glaze or Color Club.

Working with celebrities was not something I originally wanted to do. I thought they’d be fickle and too irregular with their constant traveling. It wasn’t until I met Kelis that I changed my mind. If celebs love you they could be in town for 4 hours and find a way to get an appointment! It’s so flattering.

Back in the early freelance days I got a message from Jenna Jameson, I couldn’t believe it. I had to listen twice and had no idea how she got my phone number. She thought we worked together on a FHM shoot even though I hadn’t worked for FHM at that time. I just went with it and set an appointment. I’ve worked with her for a couple years now and she has become a really great friend! Turns out I worked on a Playboy commercial with her makeup artist, Michelle, a few months earlier. She had my card so when Jenna asked her about a manicurist, she recommended me.

The only challenge with celebs is that their schedules change, things run late or they have to cancel last minute but once you have a good relationship it’s easy to deal with and you adjust your schedule. Also it is very important to know your boundaries with celebrities. They are in the public eye and you are working with them privately. They invite you into their home so you have to build and earn their trust.

Where nail fashionistas are concerned you can’t get much hotter than Rihanna. How did you connect with her and where does the inspiration for her nail looks come from?
I met Rihanna the morning of the 2007 Grammys at LaMontrose hotel in West Hollywood. She loves to be bold and different and make a statement with her nails. Rihanna is so gorgeous with a unique, fashion forward style that it only makes sense that she wouldn’t be wearing the traditional french manicure everyday. I recently got the new Essie bright yellow (Shorty Pants) and as soon as I saw it I knew she was gonna love it. It’s such a great color! Three days later when I did her nails, that was her choice.

As a freelance artist you have to be a traveling nail salon. How do you cart all your products from location to location and how much polish do you carry for most jobs?
I have a Fred Segal Samsonite rolling suitcase! It’s a beautiful perfect monster. I carry approx 125 bottles of nail polish bagged according to color; reds, pinks, lights, darks, gold & silvers, purples & blues and of course the 80′s bag. Aside from the obvious mani/pedi supplies, I bring magazines, an ipod and speakers, candy, a table, a stool for myself, a fuzzy bath mat and so much more!

What are your 5 favorite products? Treatments, tools, etc.
I am not branded to one line in particular and I like the things that I like so I mix it up

Your 5 favorite polish shades?
I like so many colors I would feel bad choosing just five

What do you think are the big mistakes us amateur at-home manicurists make?
SANITATION and remembering to bring a lamp. Sometimes clients like the dark so my $10 Ikea desk lamp is my best friend.

What is the best nail tip or trick that most people don’t know about?
Using EZBOND by EZFlow before applying base coat – it preps the nail so the polish lasts forever!

Do you see any big nail trends emerging? What nail looks need to just pack up and move on?
For a while the reverse French but with Summer coming, brighter colors are big again. Neons are in full force and smokin hot! Though I like all the trends – they all seem to come back eventually. Even chipped nails make a statement. I always say dark, black nails are high fashion runway when they are fresh and new. Once they chip you’re an edgy, grunge rock star!

How do you unwind at the end of a crazy day?
At the end of my crazy days, which from time to time actually don’t end til the sun has come up, I like to see what my TIVO has waiting for me.

What was the last polish shade you had on your tips? your toes? Or do you never have time to do your own nails?
My toes are Bizerk Turq from Color Club. I gave it to Rihanna to take on tour. I try not to have “naked toes” but my hands are a different story. My left hand has a pink pinky, two different shades of yellow on the ring and middle fingers and a green pointer! I never polish my nails, they are display pallets for my clients. People always get a good laugh at my “crazy nails” look.

Share with us a great nail moment from your career.
Most recently it was being with Rihanna at the 50th Annual Grammy Awards watching her first Grammy win! It was also my one year anniversary of working with her so that was super exciting. I was so happy for her. When she came back to the dressing room we all exploded into applause and began calling her “Grammy Award Winning Artist Rihanna!” Her whole group is like a family and they truly care about her. We all get along and work very well together so it was quite a celebration!

Thank you Kimmie for such an incredible interview. It’s been a pleasure getting to know you and learn more about your life as a celebrity manicurist. For more information on Kimmie check out her website, http://www.kimmieknails.com/.

Welcome to The Nail Files, a new series here on All Lacquered Up. The Nail Files will feature interviews with nail industry professionals, sharing their favorite products, manicure tricks, views on nail trends, back story, etc. I really hope you all enjoy it.

To kick off the series, I’m continuing the eco-conscious theme I featured in honor of Earth Day with green celebrity manicurist Jenna Hipp. Jenna spends her days styling the tips and toes of celebs like Jessica Alba, Sophia Bush, Fergie and Paris Hilton all the while keeping a focus on using healthy, earth-friendly products. She’s young (only 26) and gorgeous (a former model), yet she’s already racked up an impressive list of clients and editorial work. So getting the chance to pick her brain about all things nails was truly a treat.

What made you focus on celebrity and editorial work and how did you break into the industry?
This career most definitely chose me. Prior to the nail industry, I owned a photo rep agency in Los Angeles called “Hipp Artist Management”. I was an agent for a select group of fashion, beauty and celebrity photographers. Before that, I was modeling and doing makeup. Celebrity Manicurist Lisa Postma is the sole reason for my career change. She’s the one who made my new life possible because she believed in me and connected me with the right people.

It seems that a lot of celebrities are playing it safe with their nails. Who really dares to be different and fashion forward with their color choices?
Fergie is awesome! I love how she’s not afraid to make a statement and go all-out with her nail choices. My favorite is her domino design. Sophia Bush is also quite brave with her color choices. She loves the color Alive by SpaRitual. Kate Nauta from Transporter 2 is always using the brightest neons! I just used Orly’s Green with Envy on her. It’s Wild! And, of course, we can’t forget Rihanna. She rockin’ a different color every week. These girls definitely know how to use their nail color as an accessory, which I think is super fun!

Fergie has been the focus of an All Lacquered Up Celebrity Nail Watch due to her outrageously bold color and nail art choices. Where does the inspiration for her different looks come from?
Fergie likes what she likes. She’s not afraid to try something new and she’s definitely not afraid to make bold statements with her nails! Most magazines want a really natural nail, like the shoot I did for her for the cover of Glamour Magazine. She’s totally cool with that, too.

Do you see any celebrity nail trends emerging for summer? And who is wearing them?
The hottest colors this summer are bright and bold but still feminine and sophisticated. Reds and darker oranges, even the flirty pinks and lavenders are mixed with beige, grey, or orange undertones to give the nails a uniquely personal, chic finish that looks new and fresh on toes and fingers. Popping, happier, energetic reds mixed with oranges, tangerines. Avoid matching the hands with the toes. You don’t want to be too matchy-matchy!

My favorite nail color for summer is a bold, yet elegant, tangerine from SpaRitual called Plugged In. The color is flattering on just about anyone!

As far as neutral colors; matte baby pinks with a hint of melon or lilac mixed with a creamier white base. Not the usual shimmery pinks of the past several years. My favorite softer pinks are Orly’s First Kiss and Cupcake. For brighter, Butterflies is great summer pink! Dolly Parton has been wearing the best pink ever like SpaRitual’s Strike A Pose. I love it…and her! Seriously, if I could meet anyone in the world, it would be her!

I’m also seeing traditional summer fabrics used as nail texture. Heatherette and Tracey Ullman are rocking nails painted like the American Flag and we may also being seeing plaid and snake skin patterns too!

OK let’s talk green and healthy nail care. How does being a “green” manicurist affect your ability to work with artificial nails?
I do not do acrylic or gel artificial nails at all. When I work with a celebrity who has artificial nails I usually just do an organic deep conditioning treatment as well as hand exfoliation. And, of course, a polish change!

What are your favorite green nail products? Polish, treatments, tools, etc.
These are my favs that just came out:
SpaRitual Awakened Collection, Orly Love Collection and SpaRitual Open-Minded Organic Sugar Scrub (70% certified organic ingredients ).

These are my classic favorites:
Nail Polish

• Orly – 3 Free and no parabens, FD&C coloring or animal testing. They have a ton of fantastic, fun colors and the Manicure Miniatures are perfect for me as I have to bring so many polishes to photo shoots.
• SpaRitual – They use Vegan ingredients from around the world, including many specially sourced and selected plant essences that are wildcrafted or organic. The formulations are naturally colored and free of synthetic dyes.
• Priti Polish – An incredible boutique spa in Soho, Priti is 100 percent organic. All their nail varnishes are completely formaldehyde, toluene and DBP free.

Top coat - Nubar Diamond Shine & Seal and Zoya Armor
Bottom coat - SpaRitual Resurface Smoothing Primer Basecoat and SpaRitual Multi-Tasker Base & Top Coat In One
Cuticle oil – Nubar Cucumber Cuticle Oil and Carolyn New York Lavender Cuticle Oil
Nail polish remover – Nubar Cucumber Polish Remover (acetone free and smells nice) and Priti Soy Polish Remover (no petroleum by-products, non-toxic and biodegradable)
Hand cream – SpaRitual Instinctual Moisturizing Lotion (MY FAVORITE!!!!) and Burt’s Bees Healthy Healing Carrot Nutritive Body Lotion
Others – Farm Fresh Fine Foot Scrubs, Dermalogica Stree Relief Treatment Oil and Dermalogica Hydro-Active Mineral Salts

I’ve noticed brands that say they are “formaldehyde free” still contain the resin. What is the difference?
3 Free formula SHOULD be completely free of any traces of DBP, Formaldehyde and Toluene. However many lacquers say they are 3 Free but contain formaldehyde and toluene resin. Sometimes the toxic heavy metal lead acetate is included. A number of the common synthetic coloring agents have also been linked to cancer in some studies, especially the coal-tar dyes found in FD&C Blue 1 and FD&C Green 3.

What about the packaging? Does 3 Free and environmentally friendly packaging go hand in hand?
Green packaging is important as well! Green formula with environmentally hazardous bottles and packaging/manufacturing practices is so not cool! SpaRitual makes it their brand philosophy from start to finish to be eco-conscious and green. They recycle all by-products, run on the least amount of energy possible, avoid harmful chemicals and toxins during the manufacturing process and use recycled glass and FSC certified paper for all sales and marketing collateral, shipping and packaging.

Just a few things to know about how GREEN SpaRitual is…they are in eco-friendly bottles with soy based ink, recycled glass and shipped/produced to create the least stress on the environment. They’re also the first nail care company to get the “stamp of approval” from AVEDA, which means they can now be placed in all their concept stores.

Do you feel that the chemical free or more natural products are just as effective and long lasting as the conventional lines?
It’s known in the nail world that a lot of really natural lacquer collections usually lack color options and don’t have the best staying power. This is true for a lot of brands, but not for the ones I use which include SpaRitual, Orly, and Priti. They each have over 80 shades in their collections and a staying power that matches the toughest of lacquers out there!

What steps can we as consumers take to make sure our nail services are more earth conscious both at the salon and at home?
Education is the first step. Read labels to avoid toxic ingredients. Next step, find a green brand of polishes you love and take them to the salon. Make sure you bring your base coat and top coat as well. Jessica Alba keeps green products I gave her in the glove box of her car. That way she always has them with her. She’s very aware of the harm nail chemicals can cause, especially while being pregnant. She’s going to be the best mom!

What are your 5 “must have” eco-friendly nail polish shades for summer?
I LOVE Orly Bon-Bon this summer! It’s a creamy lilac that I used on Amanda Bynes for the cover of Seventeen and the cover of Harpers Bazaar International.
Spa Ritual Alive. This is Sophia Bush’s favorite color.
Orly Passion Fruit is so fun! A very bright pink, perfect for the girls who are bringing back the 80′s!
Priti Cornflower. It’s that perfect Navy everyone’s raving about!
Zoya Elodie. Such an incredible blend of pink and orange tones. You will get compliments everywhere you go!

And just for fun…
If you weren’t a manicurist you would be…
A photo agent once again. I loved everything about it…. I just make more money doing nails!

What was the last nail polish shade you wore on your tips? on your toes?
The last time I had my nails painted was for my wedding. Funny enough, I chose “One Night Stand” from Orly’s Divorcee collection. Ha! Isn’t that ironic?

Share with us a great nail moment from your career.
Oh, goodness. I’m so thankful for all my experiences. Working with Jessica Alba has got to be my favorite though! She’s just been so amazing over the past year. I can’t even begin to tell the world how much I love and appreciate her. She often has me over to her house for mani/pedi’s along with her hairstylist, Robert Ramos, his assistant Christopher, and her makeup artist, Lauren Anderson. We have such a great time getting Jessica ready for whatever event she has that day. It was really weird though when paparazzi started taking pictures of me leaving her house! I just ran to my car as fast as I could because I wasn’t expecting that at all!

I want to thank Jenna Hipp for taking the time to share her passion and stories with all of us. It was a pleasure. You can check out Jenna’s work on her website, http://www.jennahipp.com/. And for more info on the nail brands Jenna discussed click on the links in the “Nail Polish Links” section.